SADORU

Client: ADIDAS

Adidas invited McCaffrey Studio to redesign their bestselling Tubular trainers for their avant-garde, fashion-led brand Y-3.

  • TUBULAR refers to Adidas’s unique sole formed of a coiled tube of rubber, which has been a defining feature of their popular QASA shoe series in recent years. Further research revealed that the TUBULAR sole unit was first utilised in an earlier version of the Tubular Runner silhouette from the main Adidas collection.

  • The unusual Qasa upper appeared to prioritise comfort, moving away from conventional performance sports or street-style shoes, featuring a modern, yet almost primitive, foot-binding aesthetic. A new version should align with these values of comfort and relaxed style.

    After assessing the shoe, it was determined that a lighter design (both visually and physically), a more controlled, distinctive movement for the upper and further emphasis on the innovation of its tubular sole would enhance its appeal. This became the design specification.

  • Initial sketches explored ways to amplify its TUBULAR nature. Concepts included scooping out the sides of the tubes to expose the internal structure, carving a sole from an extra-large tube section, and splitting an internal tubular void to form the letter Y, referencing Y-3.

  • Further inspiration stemmed from monorails, which echoed the forward motion of the foot, and catamaran boats, known for their two parallel tube-like hulls that provide stability and support while maintaining speed.

  • Attention then focused on the style of the new upper, with a requirement for it to be comfortable enough for commuters while suitable for casual business or social events. Cushioned and protective environments informed the theme board.

  • To challenge the perception that Y-3 only produces sporty sneakers, the introduction of a casual shoe was seen as an interesting departure. Given Y-3's prior attempts at classic styles, an opportunity to develop this concept was identified.

    The design referenced the often-overlooked classic saddle shoe, constructed around a panel of leather that wrapped over to straddle the upper, reminiscent of a horse saddle. This association with elegance and casual sporting style offered a distinctive structural element for the upper.

  • Initial sketches showcased the potential of this structural feature, creating a modern, yet elegant appearance. A signature ‘3-stripe’ casual woven fabric was considered, followed by the production of a final hand-drawn illustration specifying the shoe’s ‘sock-in-a-saddle’ construction, ensuring ease of wearing.

  • A signature ‘3-stripe’ casual woven fabric was considered, followed by the production of a final hand-drawn illustration specifying the shoe’s ‘sock-in-a-saddle’ construction, ensuring ease of wearing.

    This final hand sketch was translated into a digital format to allow for the accurate refinement of geometries, constructions, and details, resulting in a design specification drawing.

    An impression of the catamaran-inspired tubular sole was also included.

  • As with the previous project for Adidas—the ‘Shinobi’ shoe—tonal colourways were considered to ensure the upper panels aligned effectively to produce a variety of graphic options.

  • The final tonal proposal highlighted the main saddle feature and the new sole while presenting a restrained, casual appearance. A blend of soft, woven, and/or elasticised fabrics was suggested for the main ‘sock’ and tongue insert, combined with a more structural saddle element over the midfoot to ensure a secure fit.

    Discreet, printed semi-translucent, slightly frosted silicone-style rubber was suggested for the forefoot and heel panels, providing protection and holding the foot in place while allowing breathability and stretch in the upper.