The Welly. Rebooted.

Client: Bòtann

Studio McCaffrey was tasked with creating a new footwear brand to restart the wellington boot industry in Scotland. The project was based in Dumfries, the historical home of Scottish rubber boot manufacturing, which was once known for producing the best wellington boots in the world.

  • Women working on sewing machines in a factory during the mid-20th century.

    The aim was to revive the industry, and extensive interviews and research uncovered a rich heritage of innovation and craftsmanship in local rubber manufacturing. This inspired and informed a contemporary vision for a new Scottish wellington brand, centred on a progressive, high-quality, city-ready rubber boot.

  • Collection of modern outdoor and travel items including a jacket, sweatpants, a puffer jacket, a bottle of scalp treatment, a backpack, a wristwatch, and athletic shoes.

    The concept involved creating a new type of waterproof boot that represented Scotland’s unique countryside while paying homage to its cities and progressive design culture.

    “MODERN UTILITY” was the guiding phrase throughout the design process, leading to the development of a new type of wellington for urban environments—something strong and water-resistant enough for a wet morning commute through the park, yet smart enough to be worn during a meeting.

  • Handwritten sketch and notes on footwear design, including drawings of boots and shoes, with annotations about materials, construction, and features such as rubber soles, fabric, and stitching.

    Initial sketches took shape quickly, specifying a new sole silhouette for a wellington which traditionally featured a heel. A wedge-style rubber sole unit provided a modern look and a larger underfoot grip area.

  • Sketches of a black rubber rainboot with notes on materials and design features, including interior lining, low profile sole, and hidden colored elastic.

    Explorations began on the idea of a waterproof shoe section and a separate, potentially interchangeable waterproof fabric section for the ankle and above. This design offered versatility for the wearer and efficiency for the brand to create different combinations in a collection based on a single moulded element.

  • A pair of gray and white rubber boots shown from the front and side views.

    The boots featured a rubber base and sole, with a full-length neoprene sock for the ankle and calf, providing warmth and a snug fit while creating a stretchy collar for ease of access, allowing the wearer to slip in and out effortlessly.

  • Illustration of various welllington boots in different colors and styles, including tall and ankle boots, showing side views and a pair of knee-high boots.

    By maintaining the same shoe section and swapping these interchangeable neoprene socks, various silhouettes could be created, ranging from a low version suited for everyday city commutes to full-height protective boots for more challenging outdoor activities.

  • Apartment building with a skybridge connecting two sections, under a clear blue sky.

    While the boot concept was developing, the search began for a factory capable of producing it. An exceptional rubber factory in Bratislava called Novesta was identified. Founded in the 1930s, it was the largest shoe factory in the former Czechoslovakia, producing rubber-soled shoes for various industries, including exercise, work, sports and technical rain boots for the military.

  • A large block of raw natural rubber on a wooden pallet in an industrial warehouse on the left. Rolled rubber on a metal surface in a factory floor on the right.

    Novesta exclusively uses 100% natural rubber as a raw material, and any off-cuts and scraps can be re-kneaded into new rubber.

  • Overlapped line drawings of an ankle height wellingtons.

    The calendered, sheet rubber would be layered strategically around the foot using the thinner, supple inner shell in areas requiring elasticity, particularly near the neoprene collar. Rubber sheets reinforced high-stress areas, including the heel and forefoot vamp. A textured rubber sidewall was added for extra strength and protection, along with components designed to facilitate easy pulling on and off. A shaved, expanded rubber sole was used to launch the definitive prototype for fitting and testing.

  • Diagram of a black wellington boot showing modifications.

    The initial prototype closely aligned with the vision. The elasticated trunk provided adaptable support and comfort around the ankle area, addressing a common pain point in traditional wellington boots while allowing active articulation of the ankle—ideal for quick dashes on wet pavements.

  • Side-by-side images of shoes and people. The left image shows three pairs of black and white shoes with thick soles on a wooden surface. The right image shows a group of young people gathered around a man demonstrating the fitting of a range of boots

    User feedback was gathered from a sample of the target audience, comprising young women who enjoyed city and countryside settings.

  • Pair of stylish white and black ankle boots with black soles, black stretchy collar, and a small black label on the side reading 'BOTANN'.

    They unanimously favoured the ‘chukka’ height ankle boot version, which was easy to slip on and complemented their all-day personal style.

  • Packaging design for Botann boots, showing packaging concepts from Slovakia and Scotland, a recycled cardboard box, and a proposed adhesive label with a boot illustration, size 43, black color, and barcode.

    After additional testing, final construction details were refined to produce definitive tech packs, ready to be sent to the factory for sample production. Instructions for labelling, packaging details and artwork for a care leaflet were prepared for the first sales orders.

To launch the collection, a new brand and company—Bòtann—was created, translating to ‘rubber boot’ in Scots Gaelic. The new boot became the core element in a campaign to revitalise the rubber welly industry in Scotland, centred around this collection and made available to the public through selected e-commerce retailers and public events.

  • Pair of beige waterproof ankle boots with black elastic sides and black soles on a white background.

    The debut collection featured the signature style: chukka-style ankle boots offered in essential, limited colourways such as All-Black, Khaki and Forest Berry.

  • White and black ankle-high waterproof boots with a thick rubber sole and a pull tab at the back.

    The most popular colourway was Putty White with black trim and detailing.

  • Pair of black and white patterned shoes with black accents, viewed from above on a white background.

    A limited-edition version was designed in collaboration with local illustrator Alice Dansey-Wright to complement the collection.

  • various images of people wearing white boots with black soles and accents. The collage includes indoor and outdoor scenes, such as a person standing on a sidewalk in a colorful outfit, someone sitting on rocks near water, a person walking a bike, and close-up shots of the boots.

    Bòtann launched via a successful crowdfunding campaign, quickly gaining favour with young, active, city-smart women who enjoy exploring nature.

For full story see video below.

(Part of a guest lecture given at Glasgow School of Art, January 2025)

  • “Robert's passion for design stretches far beyond his work. He lives and breathes it, bringing a contagious energy and assurance to the teams he collaborates with."

    Michael Nicolson, Director - Bòtann